the city of men

Then came Saturday, the day before the introduction week would begin and after waking up I walked to the area around school to meet up with my friend Pauline to see an apartment that I was thinking about renting. Until now, I hadn't seen the area around the school in daylight, and I had spent most of my time around the center of Athens. I have realized afterwards that I chose the wrong way to go, and it was to say the least, an experience to walk there myself. Even though it was 10 in the morning on a Saturday and and I still hadn't put on any make-up or in any way made an effort to look good, men were shouting and yelling after me all the way there and when they passed me, they almost always left a comment about my appearance. I can't really say that I felt unsafe or scared, I was more annoyed and irritated that I couldn't just be left alone. 

The apartment was newly renovated, clean and good looking. But there were 4 bedrooms for students and only a sofa for two (maximum three) people and a dining table with only two chairs, and the rent was at 450€ so I said no and me and Pauline walked to the Saturday-market to buy brunch. 

On our way to the market we bought fresh bread that was baked in a round, wood-burning oven and when we arrived to the market, I was greeted by the kingdom of heaven. The farmers markets is locally known as ‘laiki agora’ (λαϊκή αγορά), which means ‘the people’s market’. These markets happen weekly in most neighborhoods and sell mostly fruits, vegetables, fish, flowers and plants, as well as some household items and prepared foods that are in season at the time. This one was located near our University, but most Greek people avoid those areas since they are seen as bad neighborhoods and I have been recommended to visit the one at Kallidromiou street next time that's also being held every Saturday. 

We bought peaches, nectarines, grapes, fresh pomegranate juice, chestnuts, avocados and more. And on the way back to her place we also bought some Greek yoghurt and cream cheese. Since, as I've said before, I don't have a kitchen at my hostel, I was in pure heaven when we sat down at her dining table which was filled with the most fantastic brunch.  

Finally, full and satisfied, I said goodbye to Pauline and walked to Anna and Venla who also lives in the same area. We were planning on walking around in Athens and explore more of the city. On our way there we stopped at Fontana to get some smoothies. While we were waiting for our orders, three older women overheard that we were students, and they happened to have three tickets for the tourist bus over which they didn't plan to use. These cost 59 euros each, but they gave them to us for free and wished us good luck with our studies. How can one be so lucky!? 

On our way to the bus stop, we were noticing a lot of cops everywhere. With that said, more than usual because it is always full of police in Athens. And all of a sudden the road that we were walking was blocked by vaccination protesters who came towards us as well as groups of several police officers with full uniforms and shields. But a Greek man working in a store that we were just passing by shouted at us which direction we should run to get away. The demonstration was peaceful and everything went well, but it was a new experience for me because we rarely (if ever) have such events and demonstrations in Sweden. 

We then jumped on the bus and we got to see new areas of Athens that we had not seen before and saw many places we would like to visit. However, I would not recommend anyone to pay 59 euros for the trip. Other demonstrations were taking place around Athens, but as I said, they were all peaceful and caused nothing more than traffic jams. Before saying goodbye, we each bought our Spanakopita, which is a traditional Greek spinach pie made with phyllo dough, feta cheese and spinach.

For the first time since I came to Athens, I had made no plans to eat with anyone else. And since it was already dark outside on a Saturday evening, it was not an alternative for me to go out alone to buy takeaway since it would feel too unsafe. So I was more or less trapped in my hostel and had to chose between ordering delivery from Volt or going up to my rooftop and ordering something from the restaurant. 

I chose the latter option and for 10 euro I had a bowl of pasta with burrata and tomato sauce. Expensive to be in Athens, but at least it made me satisfied for the night. Up on my rooftop I could feel completely comfortable and safe, and by this time I had gotten to know most of the staff at the hostel.

While I was sitting there enjoying the view, I met a guy with whom I spent the rest of the evening. He was nice and we had a good time together. But I got a little annoyed when he laughed at me as I tried to explain why I did not feel safe walking alone on some streets in Athens when it got dark outside. He was an experienced traveler and could not see the problem in the situation. "What's the worst that could happen?" he said, and I thought "This truly is the city of men"...

The next blogpost will be on Monday,

With love, Elsa ♡